Latest Event Updates
| submitted by /u/MikeyFlipped
I had my current system looked at through the electric companies free $175 service. The system has never worked well since moving in last summer (already replaced a capacitor myself) and the balance has been poor. So found someone on the list that showed installs on facebook and had them come out to do a temp repair and get some quotes.
For the duct work issue he suggested on the far/hot side that is much larger in volume to add a new duct and also a return to hot bedroom hallway side. The current duct work is split 50% on one side of the house and 50% on the other with one side being closer to 70% of the bedroom volume compared to the other side. He also quoted replacing with an Amana 20 seer unit and will email a 18 seer and probably 2 stage option.
The current unit is 19 years old inside and choked down on the output so not ideal and had leaked 2.5lbs of freon out. The outside unit is an apartment grade goodman unit with the total system being 3.5 ton.
Pricing for the 4 ton 20 seer system with the duct work at $900 was given at $7700 for replaecment of indoor and outdoor unit matched. This includes the electric company giving $750 per a ton on high seer units upto $2k and $550 for high effeciency gas furnace.
To get a competing quote I called train out to see. Their quote included the j load calc but they both came up with 3.5 ton or 4 ton on variable systems since not in halfs. He recommended moving the living room return that is on the floor to up high on the wall, enlarging the kitchen one and possibly moving to the hallway and also a return in the large hot bedroom side. Their quotes though were quite eye popping. The 20 seer was $16k and their 16 seer was $12k. They included $1394 in optional blow in insulation and two carbon dioxide sensors to replace the hallways (I can do this myself now). Also they spent a lot of time telling my wife how bad Amana is by pulling up 2016 consumer reports rating (Amana is a lot better in the 2018)
I've had goodman at my trailer home in Louisiana with a coleman interior. It was a fairly old r22 system but never had any complaints. Should I get another quote or go with the Amana? I can't jump too low on the seer rating as the rebates roll off pretty quickly. I am in OKC so with the leak already ate $100 in electricity more than normal and can limp maybe another month before I'll be in the same spot.
Any suggestions on the vent return options? How much would zoning add on a 4 bedroom 1782 sq foot house?
TLDR: Amana 20 seer 4 ton quote $7700
Trane 20 seer 4 ton quote $16k
Both included $900 in duct work
Looking to cool down a 200-ish square feet room from 80 to 70. Any specific recommendations that can get the job done effectively?
| submitted by /u/Screamingfox
| submitted by /u/smellinsalts
Yes, it probably old AF, but what can I do right now to see if it's an easy fix. I have some slight electrical knowledge and a multimeter, how do I test the capacitor, just looking for a connectivity across certain terminal terminals or a certain amount of voltage across certain terminals.
House is 3300 SQ Foot (2 story walkout) in Minnesota. We have a Fantech central bath vent system that pulls air from a grates in all 4 bathrooms (2 upper, 1 main and 1 basement). It is controlled by a hi/mid/low dial in the furnace room (never know what to set it at).
I want to be more efficient then just the blower/fan and create a better fresh air situation in the house. We always keep the house around 68-70 in the summer (love A/C) when the temp is above 78 outside.
My basement seems more humid then it should be so I think air is getting sucked in from the basement walls (they are all either block with foam-board or ploy/taped studs with drywall). We also have a drop ceiling in 70% of the basement.
We have a new 2 stage AC and efficient ECM modulating furnace.
Would anyone recommend replacing the Fantech blower with a HRV or ERV? Can I just add a intake from outside and duct the other to the house hold return. I would reuse the bath vent and current air out duct work for that part of the HRV or ERV.
Also can't find a solid clue if HRV or ERV is recommended in the north.