Hello HVAC experts, if I could bend your ear for a moment, I'm interested in your opinions about a potential HVAC install in my home. I live near Seattle, and have my house has three stories: A basement (partially unfinished but with some ducts installed in the finished area), ground floor with vaulted ceilings, and a two room upper floor. I know that my existing furnace is due for a replacement as it was purchased in 2003.
After engaging a local HVAC company and them surveying my house, they have pointed out the inherent problems with building layout, namely that my basement is very cold and without any dehumidification, my vaulted ceilings cause heat to collect at the top, and my upper floor has a study with a lot of hot equipment running in it, making it unbearable during summer.
They have offered me several options all using American Standard:
|Base install (inc H2O High efficiency + mixer replacement)||$8,928.00|
|17 SEER A/C 2-stage modulating system||+$2,542.00|
|17 SEER heat pump 2-stage modulating system||+$3,642.00|
|20 SEER 3-ton Heat pump system (inc ACONT1050 thermostat)||+$6,959.00|
|Honeywell F-300 electronic air cleaner||+$785.00|
|Accuclean electronic air cleaner||+$1,550.00|
I guess I'm really after your advice on two things:
- Guidance on if the 2-stage or 3-ton heat pump may be better for my situation
- Are the three air cleaners interchangeable with each other?
- Are the prices within reason?
I’m looking to replace my oil furnace and AC with a Heat pump. Both the furnace and AC are about 25 years old. I live in central PA and have a ranch house about 1200 square feet. I narrowed it down between 2 systems. Is system one worth an extra $3,000?
Carrier 2 Ton, 18 SEER, 5 Stage Heat pump and 11 HSPF heating efficiency
10 KW Auxiliary Heat Package
Carrier Infinity Touch Controller
Carrier 2 Ton, 17 SEER, 2 Stage Heat pump and 9.5 HSPF heating efficiency
10 KW Auxiliary Heat Package
Need some help. Just about to finalize an install of a 3 zone minisplit system and wanted to confirm the electrical requirements with my electrician. The drawing in the install manual seems to show 2 hots and a ground. No neutral. Just trying to confirm this and LG customer support won’t even talk to me. Can anyone help? Thanks
Posted in r/HomeImprovement, but I figured I'd post here, since this area is more specialized:
I have a large rectangular main room, with a large square utility room (Furnace, Water Heater, Water Softener, etc) in my basement,. sort of like this:
|Utility Room||< Stairs Down||Stairs down V|
I will be needing to put a dehumidifier somewhere in the basement, since I am in MN and it will get humid, and I was thinking of putting it in the utility room, so I can utilize the drain in there. To get some air flowing from the basement to the dehumidifier, I was thinking of putting in a wall vent near the floor of the corner of the utility room (represented in the top right corner above), by cutting through the drywall, so air can flow from the basement, into the utility room to be dehumidified. I would then put another vent on the left utility room wall to let dehumidified air flow out.
Presently, there are no vents allow for airflow directly to/from the basement/utility room. My concern is that opening airflow to a living area would screw with combustion or allow leakages into the living areas.
Can I get some thoughts on this? Is there an issue with open airflow through the utility room to/from living areas for the dehumidifier?
TL:DR is running new insulated ductwork in the attic okay to do, in an older 1930s house with cold bedrooms on the second floor? ON Canada.
I have an old house in Ontario Canada. Winters can be -20.C (-4.F) to summers at 32.C (90.F). Our house has no insulation in the walls (from what I’ve seen just tar paper, plywood and an air gap between the brick). The attic is insulated.
Upstairs the HVAC ductwork is lacking. No cold air returns in bedrooms and only 1 heat vent per room, with the exception of the master bedroom and what will become our nursery sharing 1 heat vent.
I’ve had an HVAC contractor come out and plan for running a 10” plenum from the basement to the attic (and bulkheading 2 vertical and 1 horizontal rooms to get there). From there he plans to switch the existing heat registers to Cold air return (at the source in the basement), and add the ductwork to each bedroom in the ceiling via insulated ducts in the attic.
It all sounds good to me (minus the mess, loss of some space with bulkheads, but cost seems fair of $3400 CAD not including the framing/drywall). However just wanted the opinion of this community if anyone has done anything similar. I did google to see if the ceiling option was common practice and it seems to be, but found a few articles like this one that state it’s a very bad idea. Mind you, my house is already drafty and without significant gutting/renovating that won’t be fixed (I’ve explored it with insulators and found it not worthwhile).
I did just move into the house in November so haven’t been here long term, but the bedrooms do get cooler than the rest of the house and we’re expecting a baby in May, so if work is to be done I’d like to do immediately.
My oil furnace is coming up on 26 years old and I'm looking at heating options for the future. I live in Maine and have seen a lot about heat pumps. I've also read that heat pumps aren't efficient in a cold climate such as Maine. Wondering if someone could clear it up for me if heat pumps could be used efficiently through the winter in a Maine home if set up properly. Smaller 2 bedroom home but two levels.
Our other options are continue with oil, switch to natural gas since it is already piped into the house, possibly propane, possibly wood heat. See combo of those?
Looking for thoughts on it.